ANZ Gothic Bank

The ANZ Gothic Bank stands majestically on the corner of Queen Street and Collins Street. It comprises two buildings: the former English, Scottish and Australian (ES&A) Bank on the corner and the former Melbourne Stock Exchange, fronting Collins Street. In 1923 the two buildings were renovated and combined, becoming known simply as the 'Gothic Bank.' Both are superb examples of the gothic revival style, albeit in contrasting ways. The former ES&A Bank is an exercise in graceful restraint, whereas the former Stock Exchange reflects the exuberance of the 1880s’ banking boom. In recent times, they were restored as part of the construction of the ANZ World Headquarters. 

Pic credit: Collector's Marvellous Melbourne

My own pic, 2011 

ES&A Bank 

Built in 1883-87, the former ES&A Bank was designed by architect William Wardell in the gothic revival style. The lancet windows, lofty ceilings and narrow spire emphasise the verticality of the building - a technique often used in the architecture of gothic cathedrals to give the impression of height. Today it may seem unusual to design a secular bank in a style suggestive of a religious building. However in the late nineteenth century, medieval architecture, and particularly the architecture of gothic cathedrals, was experiencing a widespread revival. For many architects, the style's appeal had more to do with its beautiful aesthetics than any religious motive. And one can envisage how the romanticism of the gothic style would have been an attractive outlet in an era of industrialisation and increasing austerity in design. 

Wardell's design for the ES&A Bank, 1883 (David Syme & Co) Pic credit: State Library of Victoria

Today on the ground floor, the majestic banking chamber is still resplendent with iron columns, gilded capitals and beautifully painted ceilings. I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside but the ground floor is accessible to the public as it is a fully-functioning branch of the ANZ bank. If you are in the area, it is definitely worth having a look around this magical room. Meanwhile, the top two floors of the building are permanently closed off. These levels were originally the residence of the bank's general manager, Sir George Verdon. In addition to holding this highly respected position, Verdon was also an enlightened patron, responsible for commissioning the design of the ES&A Gothic Bank. It is a shame the former residence is not open to the public as a museum as it is virtually intact and the last remaining one of its kind in the city. It would provide far better insights into the history of the bank than the current tacky and tired-looking 'ANZ Banking Museum' in the basement (hardly worth a look). 

Photograph of Sir George Verdon, ca. 1860 - 1896. Pic credit: National Library of Australia

Former Melbourne Stock Exchange

The former Stock Exchange was built just after the ES&A Bank in 1888-91. It was designed by famed architect, William Pitt, in the 'free gothic' style. Elaborately ornamented, each level of the facade differs from the others. Gargoyles and stained glass windows abound. A beautiful rose window sits regally at the very top of the facade. Its flamboyant design reflects the exuberance of the 1880s’ banking boom.  However, its construction was hit hard by the depression of the 1890s, resulting in it being built beyond its means. It was sold to the neighbouring ES&A Bank in 1921 due to financial pressure. Two years later the two buildings were renovated and combined into the one ‘Gothic Bank.’  

Former Melbourne Stock Exchange, 2011. Pic credit: my own

The Cathedral Room (below) in the former Stock Exchange building is one of my very favourite spaces in Melbourne. Originally the main trading room of the Stock Exchange, it was once the most important business centre in Australia.  With six columns of Harcourt granite from Bendigo, carved capitals in white freestone and beautiful stained glass windows, it is clear to see how the room attracted its ecclesiastical name.   

Cathedral Room of the Former Melbourne Stock Exchange, 2011 (pic credit: my own)

 

ANZ World Headquarters & Restoration of the Gothic Bank

In 1990, the Gothic Bank was extensively restored by Lovell Chen Architects and Heritage Consultants and now forms part of the ANZ World Headquarters. Permission to build the ANZ skyscraper behind the Gothic Bank was granted on the condition that the heritage buildings be restored. The ANZ skyscraper is linked to the Gothic Bank via a series of glass atriums and colourful, internal chambers. ANZ enjoys the entire complex, including the heritage buildings, as a very unique premises for its world headquarters.  

The ANZ Skyscraper was designed by Peddle Thorp Architects to reflect the Gothic themes of the heritage buildings below. The curtain-walling and zig zag tracery give the impression of gothic-like arched structural supports. Ideally, skyscrapers and other modern buildings would never have been erected in the city centre. They dwarf the surrounding heritage buildings, diminishing the monumental effect these old buildings were designed to have. They also ruin the charming experience that can be had while walking around a city that evokes a sense of history and eternal time. This does not mean Melbourne should not progress and enjoy much-needed vertical office and residential space - just that the modern buildings could have been built in a designated area away from the majority of heritage buildings. Unfortunately that did not happen. With the reality of the situation in mind, I feel that the ANZ skyscraper is a relatively positive building in Melbourne. It does not overwhelm the smaller heritage buildings as much as it could have. This is the intended result of the skyscraper being set back on a podium, so as to be sympathetic to the scale of the surrounding heritage buildings. Credit should also be paid to the first class integration with, and restoration of, the heritage buildings. The ANZ Gothic Bank - a solid example of the new complimenting the old in Melbourne. 

ANZ World Headquarters, 2011. Pic credit: Peddle Thorp Architects

ANZ, The Gothic Bank: ANZ's Commitment to Preservation (pamphlet) [199-?] 
Cash, Damien M, The Gothic Bank of Collins Street (1989)
e-Melbourne website: http://www.emelbourne.net.au/bib/PEM000352.htm 
Lovell Chen Architects & Heritage Consultants website: http://www.lovellchen.com.au/projects.aspx?menu_id=2&item_id=10 
Peddle Thorp Architects website: http://www.pta.com.au/web/?page_id=828
Storey, Rohan, Buildings in Queen and Collins Street, Melbourne and the Hotel Australia site, from Yule House, 309-311 Little Collins Street, Melbourne (1990)
Victoria Heritage database: http://vhd.heritage.vic.gov.au/vhd/heritagevic#detail_places;733 
Victoria Heritage database: http://vhd.heritage.vic.gov.au/#detail_places;791Walking Melbourne website: http://www.walkingmelbourne.com/building324_anz-world-headquarters.html 

100 Years Ago... Melbourne Footage from 1910

Have you ever wondered what Melbourne looked like 100 years ago? The following clip comes from a silent documentary first screened on November 22, 1910. Quaintly titled Marvellous Melbourne: Queen City of the South, the film is the oldest complete documentary about Melbourne still in existence and comprises footage from a series of earlier films of Melbourne produced by Cozens Spencer and shot by Ernest Higgins. Opening with a cable tram ride over Princes Bridge towards the city, it takes us along Swanston Street, showing Flinders Street Station on the left and St Paul's Cathedral on the right. Melbourne's cable trams began running in 1885 and, by the time of filming, the network was already the fourth largest system in the world.

The producer of the film, Cozens Spencer, is one of the most significant characters in Melbourne's film history. He was passionate about bringing footage of Australian life to Australian cinemas, saying "a film showman in almost every country in the world must have at least a fair proportion of films made in the country in which he is in business. Patrons insist on it. They want to see in the pictures something of their own people and their own country. So showmen have to frame their programmes accordingly. Why should not Australian showmen have Australian films?" Like Cozens Spencer, I also think it is important to see something of ourselves in film, perhaps especially so when it comes to our history. We are inundated with historic images of Europe and America, but are too often unaware of the fascinating footage that exists of our very own Melbourne!

For more footage of Melbourne's past, see Melbourne Today (1931) (with sound). 

References

Buckley, Anthony, 'The Man who Met Raymond Longford', Inaugural Longford Lycell Lecture, presented May 12, 2001 

De Souza, Poppy, 'Marvellous Melbourne: Queen City of the South' (curator's notes), australianscreen  (accessed at: http://aso.gov.au/ )

Video Footage of Melbourne in 1931

This incredible footage showcases Melbourne as it was back in 1931! 

 This captivating video only runs for around 8 minutes, however if you are short on time, you can skip to the following times within the clip:

• Panoramic view over what is now Federation Square (and beyond) 0:15
• St Kilda Road - virtually unrecognisable without its modern office-blocks and soaring apartment buildings! 0:28 
• Princes Bridge with a view now blocked by Federation Square: 0:57
• Collins Street including the Regent Theatre and Town Hall: 1:10
• Parliament House which somehow appears even more impressive and beautiful back then. Also includes a glimpse of The Windsor: 1:37 
• Royal Exhibition Buildings: 2:11
• State Library of Victoria: 2:30
• University of Melbourne: 2:55 
• Fitzroy Gardens and a glimpse of 1930s fashion: 3:17
• View from the banks of the Yarra (towards what is now the Riverland bar & beyond): 4:27
• Botanical Gardens: 5:11
• Originally a horse track, The Tan's horse riders have since been replaced by joggers and power-walkers: 7.35

Interestingly, the video features the Director of the Botanical Gardens pointing at the Separation Tree (7:00.) This 400 year-old tree marks the spot where Victorians celebrated their independence from NSW in 1850. Last week (Aug 2010) somebody brutally attacked this historic tree with an axe and it is now likely to die: read The Age's article here. I cannot imagine what motivated this attack!  

I am also curious as to why the video did not include Flinders Street Station. In 1931 the Station was as much of a Melbourne landmark as it is now, featuring prominently on postcards of this time (such as the one below from 1927.) I am unsure of the provenance of the video - which could shed some light on this matter - but if anyone has any ideas or information please let me know! 

I hope you all enjoy this video as much as I did! While much of Melbourne has remained the same, the clip provides a fascinating insight into how it would have felt to be in Melbourne almost 80 years ago. How times have changed!

The Block Arcade: The Hopetoun Tea Rooms

The Hopetoun Tea Rooms is one of the greatest treasures of the Block Arcade. The salon has been part of the Block's history from the very beginning as it opened its doors in 1892. Created by the Victorian Ladies' Work Association, it was named after the Association's founder (and wife of Victoria's first governor), Lady Hopetoun. While the location within the Block Arcade has now changed, it still offers a splendid array of old-fashioned scones, sandwiches and cakes. 

The crowning feature of the Hopetoun Tea Rooms is undoubtedly the beautiful etched mirror on the back wall of the salon. Manufactured in 1891, the mirror adds grandeur and a sense of depth to the petite room. If anyone has any extra information on this beautiful piece of work, I would love to hear it! 

Upon entering the Hopetoun Tea Rooms, diners are immediately ensconced in a sea of resplendent green. While the food and service are passable, I believe it must be the experience of dining in such a beautiful and historical room which keeps this cafe full to the brim with patrons today!

What are your impressions of the Hopetoun Tea Rooms?

References

Buckrich, Judith, Collins: The Story of Australia's Premier Street (2005)

http://www.theblockarcade.com.au 

Photos: My own, 2010

The Block Arcade: Spectacular Ceilings

The Collins Street entrance to the Block Arcade is flanked by two shops featuring spectacular ceilings. When I began this blog, I knew I had to post on these ceilings as they are often missed by busy Melburnians! The first ceiling can be found in the shop now occupied by the women's fashion store, Chelsea. A glimpse of the ceiling can be seen from the outside (photo below). 

In 1907, the Singer Sewing Company commissioned the scenic artist, Phillip Goatcher, to paint this beautiful ceiling mural. The American company had moved into the premises in 1902 and wished to have a stand-out ceiling which would attract customers and represent new technologies of the time. 

As such, references to mathematics, chemistry and medicine are incorporated into the ceiling painting. Goatcher depicts these modern pursuits in classical and idyllic terms, which to me seems reminiscent of the murals of Mervyn Napier Wallace. Not only does the painting seek to establish the Singer Sewing Company as being on a par with significant technologies, it also suggests that technology is harmonious with classical ideals. The pastoral-like scenes takes on added significance as the country played such a major role in Australia's economy and sense of identity, especially back at this time. 

On the day I went to take these images, several customers in the Chelsea store looked up to see what I was photographing. One woman told me that despite shopping in the store for years, she had never noticed the spectacular ceiling! If you are ever walking past the Chelsea shop, be sure to take a glance at the ceiling through the window as you pass. It is a beautiful sight which is too often and too easily missed!

The second interesting ceiling can be found in the Wittner shoe shop, on the left of the Collins Street entrance, and adjacent to Chelsea. A glimpse of this ceiling can also easily be seen by looking through the window as you pass. 

This beautifully elaborate pressed metal ceiling was installed by Kodak over one hundred years ago. Kodak opened its first Melbourne shop at this premises at a time when cameras were first becoming accessible. In the early days, the Kodak slogan was "You press the button, and we’ll do the rest!" 

In both Wittner and Chelsea, painstaking effort has been undertaken so as not to interfere with the historical ceilings. The lighting of both stores is unattached from the ceiling (e.g Wittner uses hanging beams for lighting). I noticed that this gives the shops a slightly make-shift feel which makes them appear less professional than they might hope. The more recent elements appear incongruous with the ceilings, proving that a merging of old and new is more difficult than successful endeavours in this field would reveal! However, I think it is fabulous that the integrity of the ceilings has been maintained in both cases. The next time you are in the Block Arcade, please take a quick look through the window and let me know what you think!

References:

Buckrich, Judith, Collins: The Story of Australia's Premier Street (2005)

Cannon, Michael, The Land Boomers (1966)

http://www.theblockarcade.com.au 

Photos: My own, 2010

The Block Arcade: The Basement

In the previous post, I discussed the history of the Block Arcade from when it was built in 1892-93. But what about beforehand? In fact, the site of the arcade dates back to 1837 when the plot of land was bought by Briscoe & Co - a company dealing with grain, ironmongery and, later on, railways. In 1856 the company constructed a building on the site which it occupied until 1883, after which it relocated to Queen Street. The building was subsequently bought by the George Brothers and became the very first Georges department store in Melbourne! In 1889, there was a spectacular fire which seemed to destroy all of the building apart from its bluestone foundations. The fire was so ferocious that three firefighters lost their lives in the blaze. After the fire, Georges relocated up the hill to its well-known home at 163-168 Collins Street. Three months later, the City Property Company bought the site and commissioned the construction of the Block Arcade that we know and love today. 

Last week I read that the basement had in fact survived the fire and that remnants of the 1856 building still existed down there today. Very curious, I made my way to the Block Arcade and down the stairs towards what is now Downies Coin Auctions. The basement is a secure site and, as such, locked from the public. However, there is a windowed viewing platform which reveals incredible, hand-made brickwork dating back to the Briscoe & Co building of 1856! 

On the day I visited, I was fortunate enough to meet Roger and John of Downies. They happened to share my passion for Melbourne's history and architecture and allowed me to take some photographs of areas not visible from the window. Their insights and postcard pictures were a great source of inspiration! They gave me many ideas for future posts. 

Incredible brickwork from ca. 1856. 

The Block Arcade already has such a long history. So it is fascinating to find evidence of an even longer history which exists (and can still be seen) beneath the building! 

Does anyone know of any other remarkable basements in the city?

Click here to read about the spectacular ceilings of the Block Arcade

References: 

Buckrich, Judith, Collins: The Story of Australia's Premier Street (2005) 

Cannon, Michael, The Land Boomers (1966)

Block Arcade website: http://www.theblockarcade.com.au  

Heritage Victoria website: http://vhd.heritage.vic.gov.au/places/heritage/730

Photos: My own, 2010 

The Block Arcade: Introduction

The Block Arcade (280-286 Collins Street) is arguably the most beautiful of Melbourne's historical and architectural treasures. The Collins Street wing of the arcade dates back to 1892 and the Elizabeth Street wing to 1893. The arcade was developed by the infamous financier, Benjamin Fink, of the City Property Company during Melbourne's glorious boom-time. The architect was David C. Askew and the design was inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, Italy.  

At ground level, the Block Arcade showcases beautiful boutiques selling jewellery, watches, shirts, shoes, and chocolate. This has always been a fashionable place to shop, to see and be seen. The levels above are mainly used as offices. 

The Block Arcade features lavish interior decoration, a beautiful glass dome, and an intricate mosaic tiled floor. The mosaic floor was designed by the UK company Craven Dunnell and each tile was imported from Italy. In fact, the Block Arcade still holds in reserve samples of all colours used, except for dark chocolate. The Building and Engineering Journal noted that this was the largest expanse of mosaic to be laid down in Australia at the time. 

Below you can see the Collins Street and Elizabeth Street facades of the Block Arcade respectively. These are extraordinary examples of the Victorian style of Mannerism. Significant features include lower-level rustication and triangular pediments. 

Collins Street Facade

Elizabeth Street Facade

There is no doubt that the Block Arcade enjoys a long and rich history. However, the site of the arcade dates back even further. Click here to read the story. 

References: 

Buckrich, Judith, Collins: The Story of Australia's Premier Street (2005) 

Cannon, Michael, The Land Boomers (1966)

Block Arcade website: http://www.theblockarcade.com.au  

Heritage Victoria website: http://vhd.heritage.vic.gov.au/places/heritage/730

Photos: My own, 2010 

333 Collins Street

At the moment, Melbourne is cold and windy. Everyone is rugging up, everyone is wearing black and everyone seems to be sick (myself included!) It's times like these that you may want to step in from the cold to somewhere warm and luxurious. If this is the case, I have the building for you: 333 Collins Street. 

I am often surprised by how many Melburnians are not aware of the beautiful dome and lobby of 333 Collins Street. It has to be one of my favourite spaces in the city as its opulence is truly unparalleled. Originally constructed in 1891 for the chambers of the Commercial Bank of Australia, this is one of the most magnificent Victorian versions of an Italian Baroque interior in Melbourne. When you enter the lobby from Collins Street, it is impossible not to be caught up in the sumptuous, theatrical ambience of the place. And to think that this building only narrowly escaped the wrecking ball during 1970s demolition spree!

Thankfully the beautiful chamber and dome were rescued and maintain their grandeur today. Having said that, 333 Collins Street has received two major make-overs in its history. Firstly, in 1939 the front facade of the building was updated to a more modern Chicagoesque style. Then in 1990-91, a 33 storey, postmodern skyscraper was erected slightly back from the original building. This now contains offices, mainly those of investment banks, law firms and the like. 

To me, the more recent additions to the building work harmoniously with  its heritage. The new areas certainly strive to match the grandeur of the original chamber but, quite wisely, do not try to compete with its theatricality or classical detailing. Thus, the new parts are all about grand proportions, high ceilings, beautiful marble flooring and dulcet lighting. They provide a magnificent annex to the main lobby, while not overshadowing it. Meanwhile, the skyscraper allows for progression and much needed office-space. What do you think about this building?

 Lift-Well in the New Annex of the Lobby

New Annex (Lift-Wells to the Left) Looking Toward Flinders Lane

Original Chamber with the New Annex Visible on the Right, Below the Clock

333 Collins Street is a magnificent place to step in from the cold this Winter. There are old photographs, diagrams, and a brief history of the old chambers along the walls on the ground floor as you enter. There is also a model of the building which is great for a sense of perspective. If you exit via the newer annex to Flinders Lane, you can also warm up in some of Melbourne's wonderful cafes, including great coffee at Bar Mille and bagels and cakes at Glick's. 

References:

Information provided by the historical displays and friendly workers at 333 Collins Street

Photos:

My own, 2010.